Month: September 2017

This was our last day and night in Croatia and though the day started out with a peculiar experience, it could not have finished any better.  As we set out from Slovenia we had to solely rely on paper maps as our GPS wasn’t operational until we reached the Croatian border.  I do have to say that once you’re on the freeway everything is well-marked and fairly easy to follow.  However off the freeway there are unpronounceable streets with roundabouts veering this way and that, and pretty much all you can do is hope to quickly glimpse something familiar that will lead you in the right direction.  Lets just say that there were a few “Turn NOW!!!” “No, the other way!!!” “I think this is the way???” moments getting to and from the freeway with me navigating and Joe making hairpin turns to get us to our destination.  But we arrived safe and sound across the border of Croatia and made our way to the airport to drop off the rental car.  First stop however was at a gas station to fill up the tank and use the “facilities.”  Now if you recall, we exchanged our Kuna several days ago to Euros…..Joe comes back to the car and tells me that apparently we wouldn’t be able to use the “facilities” unless we had Kuna.  I’m puzzled….excuse me hon – are you saying that we have to pay to use the bathroom?  Yep, that’s right…..and we have no Kuna.  I’m truly glad this wasn’t an emergency!  Off to the airport we go, hoping that I’m not dancing by the time we get there.  Hertz was fabulous and after a quick inspection and paperwork they even had one of their attendants drive us the 15 miles from the airport to our hotel because “the taxi will charge you too much!”  We arrived at the Hotel Esplanade which was positively gorgeous! 

Our initial plan for the day was to arrive early, explore the capital of Croatia – Zagreb and meet with my cousins from Grandpa Pavkovich’s side of the family for early cocktails.  However we left Bled, Slovenia later than expected and arrived mid afternoon, which meant a quick trip to Zagreb’s old town and then connecting with my cousins.  To be honest, I was nervous…..I had been in contact with my cousin Jelena through Facebook but hadn’t seen her since her visit to the US in the early 90’s when she was 16 if I recall correctly.  My cousin Vanja had been to the US several times, but my recollection of her was vague from early childhood.  And believe it or not, I can be somewhat shy and overwhelmed.  Jelena had suggested that we meet in the center of the city at the Floral Square. 

Joe and I dashed up to old town for a quick trip to St. Mark’s Square where the Church of St. Mark is located.  The tile roof depicts two coats of arms.  One has a red/white checkerboard symbol for northern & central Croatia, 3 lions heads representing the Dalmatian Coast, rivers Sava & Drava representing Slavonia and the other is the Zagreb seal represented by a walled city.  The church was closed so we couldn’t go in, but at least we had the opportunity for a quick visit outside and glimpses of the old town. Checking our watches we rushed down to the Floral Square to meet family.

Wandering in the city Center we were pretty sure we located the Floral Square because of the beautiful flower stands located throughout, however I checked with a local young lady working at a stand and she confirmed that yes we were.  Literally standing in the center of the square I contacted Jelena via Messenger – “We’re at the flower square”….Next thing I know there she is, beautiful as ever.  Hugs, my eyes stinging, overwhelmed in the best of ways…..why was I ever nervous!  We walked over to an outside cafe and there was Vanja who I immediately recognized.  Natasa and her husband Damir who joined us shortly after.  Ivan and his wife and beautiful daughter.  And Jelena’s 3 girls – Charlotte, Maya Lea and Laura.  Hugs all around and it felt like home…..There is something about family and that connection that spans years and miles, but never breaks.  I wonder is this connection universal, a Croatian thing or is our family just blessed. 

Friends and family have asked if I would change anything about our trip, and I always comment that it was perfect.   But I do so wish that we had more time to visit with family.  We thoroughly enjoyed spending time and connecting but the time flew by so quickly.  With invitations to return and stay with family,  hugs and definitely tears on my part we parted company and returned to our hotel and began organizing our belongings as we prepared for our flight to Paris in the morning.

After a leisurely morning touring Rovinj, Croatia we headed off to Lake Bled, Slovenia.  Slovenia used to be part of Yugoslavia so I was hoping that the spattering of Croatian language I knew would be helpful in navigating the area, sights and restaurants. As we drove north from Croatia and crossed the border into Slovenia the landscape began to change from lush green rolling terrain to beautiful views of the Julian Alps in the distance.  We stopped at a roadside currency exchange and swapped our Croatian Kuna’s  to the Euro and purchased the required vinjeta (toll-sticker) for our rental car.  The architecture had a definite Austrian look as we headed further into the country with roadside chalets and quaint towns.

Unfortunately as we neared Lake Bled the clouds decided to roll in.  Parking was again an adventure and we fortunately found a spot by our hotel that the concierge was holding for us.  The Grand Hotel Toplice was recommended as a “must” by my dear friend Maureen and we were not disappointed.  It is an old classic elegant lakeside hotel that has been host to worldwide guests such as Arthur Miller, Agatha Christie, Madeleine Albright and King Hussein I to name a few.  It’s elegance may be starting to fray slightly, but the classic bones of the building, the impeccable service and location definitely made it a wonderful choice.  Our room was located lakeside with a balcony that had a fabulous view of the Lake and Bled Castle.  We grabbed our umbrellas (items which I was very glad to have “over packed”) and headed out to explore. 

Across the lake from our hotel we climbed the steep wooden switch-back stairway to reach Bled Castle.  It is about a 1/2 hour climb to the top, very narrow and slippery.  The castle originally dates from the year 1004, but has had several restorations since the Middle Ages.  Literally as we went through the gates of the castle to enter the courtyard the rain began to fall.  With umbrellas up we wandered the outer courtyard and upper terraces for wet but beautiful views across the lake.  There is a castle museum which with a quick visit truly saw all you needed to see, and a small chapel that was charming.  Our last stop was climbing more stairs (truly feel this has been the trip of 100,000 steps!) to the wooden defensive gallery for a few more rainy views of Bled and the surrounding area.  Walking back down the steep switch-back stairway in the rain was a bit more treacherous.  Sitting next to the lake were two empty hand-built Pletna boats.  Not many tourists or locals were out and about in the rain, so Joe & I decided it was time for a well deserved break and beer or two. 

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Our plan the next day was to drive up into the Julian Alps, however in the morning I checked my handy-dandy “Dark Sky” weather app and it warned that the mountains had been blanketed with 8-10 inches of new snow overnight, and it was still raining down at the lake and snowing up there.  Neither of us felt the urge to slip and slide through the mountains so we bundled up, grabbed our umbrellas again, and explored the town of Bled.  After a few hours, wet shoes and cold noses the spa at the hotel sounded very appealing.  I was very excited to dip into the thermal spring-fed “healing waters” swimming pool…until I dipped my toes in and found it to be freezing.  Apparently “thermal” does not necessarily mean warm in a foreign country.  Joe was brave enough to take a dip and after refusing to be coaxed in I checked out the spa.

We took a walk in the evening and ended up at Gostilna Pri Planincu (“By the Mountaineers”) for dinner and a few beers after dinner.  The food was traditional Slovenian and delicious.  Afterwards we headed into their bar which is covered in license plates from around the world and chatted for a while with another couple from the US and a couple from England.  The staff was also extremely fun and friendly and the local draft beer hit the spot!

The next morning sunshine finally arrived.  We quickly packed up, checked out, had breakfast and headed to the Pletna boats to take us across the lake to the island (Bjejski Otok).  Upon leaving the boat there is a climb of 99 steps from the dock up to the church, and apparently grooms carry their brides up the steps as a rite of passage.  The Church of the Assumption is a beautiful church and locals claim that if you ring the church bell 3 times on 1 pull your wish will come true.  After waiting in a short line I gave it a try…..those who know me well know what I wished for!  A short stroll around the perimeter of the island gave us lovely views across the lake,  the turquoise water, Bled Castle, the mountains and Tito’s Vila.  We were both so glad the weather finally broke to truly enjoy the natural beauty of this destination.

 

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We headed north and left the Dalmatian Coast and headed into the Istrian Peninsula.  The landscape changed dramatically from rocky limestone cliffs and arid land dotted with olive trees, to lush green slopes with many vineyards.  Our first stop was the town of Pula which is very industrial, but we were on a mission to see the first century Roman Amphitheatre.   It was the 6th largest in Europe, which sat over 26,000 spectators, and now the most intact and was completed about the same time as the Colosseum in Rome.  Traffic was insane and parking even worse.  Apparently there was an Iron Man Competition which ended inside the arena and the crowds to cheer them on along the streets were fun and a great source for people watching.

As we came around a corner I had my first view of the amphitheatre.  It literally took my breath away.  Truly it felt like I had stepped back in time….from a distance I could imagine how it looked 2000 years ago.  Upon entering it was a little disappointing to see all the electronics and the Iron Man venues, however we learned that the arena is used for exhibitions and concerts and I think I would pay pretty much any price to experience a concert here.  The architecture is amazing and wandering up and down the spectator area, the arena and down into the lower levels where the gladiators and animals were kept. 

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After spending several hours in Pula, we hit the road again onto our destination for the night, the city of Rovinj.  Rovinj is a seaside town that feels like it rises up from the Adriatic with twisty winding narrow cobblestone streets and lanes.  Located close to the Italian border, there is definitely a feeling of marrying both the Croatian and Italian culture. It is located on a peninsula and you enter through Tito Square and have a wonderful view of the Old Town peninsula with its fishing harbor and colorful buildings.  The Hotel Adriatic met us, parked our car off site outside of Old Town and we set about exploring. The streets can be steep but well worth the journey up to the Church of St. Euphemia.  The center square has a fountain with a little boy holding a sprouting fish and from there we headed out to the end of the Mali Molo (Little Pier).  Dinner consisted of Octopus Salad for me, which was delicious and again we encountered friendly chatty locals who were more than happy to share in conversation and curiosity.  In the morning we took to the streets to explore the old town  and I was enchanted by the colors, architecture, cleanliness, homes, shops and people of Rovinj. 

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Definitely one of the favorite places to visit and only wish we had more time to explore and relax in this beautiful town.

The “Old Road”, as it is referred to by the locals, is the old highway that runs along the coast between Split and Zadar.  Scenic vs speed was our plan, so we passed on the convenience of the “A1” toll-way and ventured on the old coastal 2 lane highway.  We were beyond enchanted with the views, the villages, the open racks of lamb/pork on a spit and leisurely drove towards Zadar stopping frequently for pictures.  So many beautiful sights and vistas, however I think our favorite area on that drive was around Rogoznica with its unspoiled beauty, access to the Adriatic and laid back style rather than touristy.  Definitely on a future vacation list!

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Our apartment in Zadar, The Bridge Luxury Apartment, was almost directly opposite the bridge leading into the old town.  We were greeted by the manager, Kika, who not only saved us a parking space but literally could not have been anymore enthusiastic and helpful in recommendations and local information. The apartment itself was superb.  After relaxing at an outside pub wetting our whistle from the drive, we headed across the bridge to explore.  And what a variety of things to explore!  The walled old town of Zadar is set on a peninsula that is accessed by a bridge with small marinas on either side where yachts sit side by side old fishing boats.  Inside the walls and on the peninsula are Roman ruins, ancient gates, charming streets, seafront, sea organ and medieval churches that would frequently ring their bells….add in wonderful outdoor cafes, restaurants and even high end shopping.  The evening was complete watching the sunset which apparently Alfred Hitchcock is quoted as saying “The sunset of Zadar is the world’s most beautiful and incomparably better than in Key West, Florida.”

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Our plans for the next day went a little bit astray…..We left the apartment early for a day trip to Plitvice Lakes National Park.  The drive was wet but beautiful and full of winding roads and tunnels cut through the Velebit Mountains.  The closer we got to the National Park, the harder the rain was falling.  We arrived to the park at 930am in a downpour that just didn’t let up. After watching tour bus after tour bus arrive turning the trails into a swarm of foot traffic and rain soaked tourists, we decided to abandon our plans for the Park.  We took a laid-back ride through the Velebit Mountains which encompassed the region of Lika, the birthplace of my paternal grandfather.  Now I know, upon viewing these mountains, valleys and peaks, why my Grandparents felt so at home when they settled in Red Lodge, Montana.  It made me wonder if my and my sister Danielle’s love of the mountains comes from some type of genetic memory.

The evening was spent in the old town of Zadar at one of the many outdoor bistros.  We had the pleasure of sitting next to a local family and spent some time practicing my Croatian, learning more about the culture, region and politics.  The local people we have encountered have been over and above friendly, especially when learning of Joe and my Croatian heritage.  A Croatian singing group was the icing on the cake for the end of the evening….bringing back memories of my playing the Brac’ and my sister Anne playing the Prim in the Croatian Kolo group when we were young.  And yes, Kenny K our director, I will always hate solos!

Our morning began with the reverse journey down cobblestone lanes with our luggage through Dubrovnik Old Town streets, through the Pile Gate and finding a taxi to take us back to the airport where we picked up our rental car.   After a lot of paperwork, questions and explanations we acquired the keys.   The car was a 6 speed manual transmission, which Joe preferred, and I was very glad the luggage fit,  rather snugly,  and that I had no plans to get behind the wheel. This was our first attempt at navigating via our GPS through my phone and it worked wonderfully!

The beginning of our journey took us back through Dubrovnik and small seaside towns on narrow roads until we reached the A1 freeway.  The “freeway” has toll booths along the way and we quickly learned how to zip through using our credit card.  We also crossed briefly from Croatia to Bosnia and back to Croatia, which meant going through border crossings and acquiring a few more stamps in the passports.  Between GPS and our handy Michelin paper map, we approached Split in about 3 hours with no problems.

Split is the second largest city in Croatia and our first impression from the freeway was of an industrial/commercial seaport and city sprawl.  As we ventured further into the city, the roads narrowed and Joe likened it to driving in Ann Arbor where young people jump in front of your car with no clue that there are vehicles flying by in all directions.  I took just a little offense to the A2 jab.  We had reservations at the Hotel Luxe with parking on the street (alley) directly behind.  This turned out to be more of a challenge than anticipated as the left 2/3’s of the alley was already filled with parked cars, which left just enough room to pass our vehicle “slowly” along cringing that we were going to lose our mirror or a least leave some paint along the stone walls.  Another  traveler recommendation……get the smallest car possible when renting!!!

After checking into the hotel we ventured down to the City Harbor, Riva and a visit to what is left of the Diocletian’s Palace.  I had been to Split a little over 40 years ago and was anticipating change, but was overwhelmed by the level of commercial trinkets & trash type vendor stalls and quirky pirate boat charters.  I was grateful that the view from the harbor back to the Riva was still intact.

 

Emperor Diocletian’s Palace however was definitely worth the trip.  We entered from the Brass Gate which is actually the back of the Palace and faces the harbor.  From there we walked down a few steps into the cellars with large stone pillars, arches, olive presses and artifacts.

From the cellars we headed up to the center square of the Palace know as the Peristyle and then directly to our right was the Cathedral of St. Dominus.  Originally a 4th century mausoleum, it was converted to a church after the fall of the Roman Empire.  The 13th century bell tower, which can be seen from the harbor, had an incredible view after climbing it’s 183 steps (my acrophobia was well under control until the descent!)

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After catching my breath from the tower, we ventured down into the crypts  and then across from the Peristyle into Jupiter’s Temple.  A couple step up from the center square is the entry vestibule where we were lucky enough to hear an acapella traditional dalmatian singing group.  It brought tears to my eyes and my heart was very full with memories of many family gatherings listening to my Grandfather, Uncles , extended family and friends singing in the same way.

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We finished the day with cocktails and a light dinner overlooking the harbor. making plans for our departure in the morning for a drive up to Zadar.

 

We left our home at 200pm Monday (9/11) and arrived weary but very excited at 230pm on Tuesday the 12th.  Our enchanting visit to Dubrovnik began with picking up an airport transfer bus to Old Town,  with a winding road down the coastline giving us our first breathtaking views of the Adriatic Sea.  Deep clear dark turquoise water crashing on a rocky shoreline glistened in the sun.  We passed small villages and stone homes and arrived at the Pile Gate of Old Town Dubrovnik where we unloaded and began our walk to our apartment.  Motorized transportation is not allowed into the Old Town, so this was our first time lugging luggage and cursing ourselves for not packing lighter.  After a few wrong turns we arrived at Celenga Apartments and then had the joy of climbing to the 3rd floor with 2 large suitcases and 2 carry-ons.  Lesson to anyone traveling…..don’t over pack!!!!!  The apartment was not only beautiful, but we found after a couple days that the location was also perfect.  We unloaded a few items, freshened up and headed out to explore the town.

It truly feels like stepping back in time.  There is the main street Stradun which is busy with tourists and shops, and branching off are smaller streets and alleys filled with shops, restaurants, apartments, nooks and crannies to explore.  It is incredibly clean and the people are friendly, helpful and eager to pull you into their establishments.  We leisurely walked with no specific agenda enjoying the history and architecture.  You could always pick out the cruise ship or bus tour groups because the street would fill with crowds led by a guide with umbrella in hand high above their head.

We eventually wandered towards the Old Port (Stara Luka) and as night set in had a beautiful view of the harbor and soon learned that Port towns are favorite places for cats.  Stray cats lounge here and there oblivious to all who pass by. Different types of music floated in and out of alleyways and we followed one into the Soul Cafe where we enjoyed a few drafts of “Pivo” (Beer) accompanied by the sweet sounds of a young man playing the cello.  These  are the types of places we found to be the little gems in the treasure of Dubrovnik.  Off the beaten path with local food, music and friendly people.

The next morning we were off to an early start and headed to walk the City Walls after breakfast.  It was sunny, hot and fairly crowded.  The 15th-century walls enclose the Old Town and the entire walk is about 1.25 miles.  There are a lot of stairs and inclines, but the views of the city, Fort of St Lawrence and the Adriatic make every shin splint I experienced later worth it.  We then headed over to the Fort of St Lawrence for more stairs and amazing views.

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A cable car ride up to Mount Srd for dinner at the Panorama Restaurant overlooking the Old Town and surrounding coast was beyond expectation – including my fully intact King Prawns which literally required a bib and leaving my table manners at home to truly enjoy them.  Our plans were for an early dinner and then hike across the hill-top and wait for the sunset.   We walked cross-country over rocky crags, around trenches and arid scrub brush – I joked that I was hoping the area had been cleared of landmines from the war in the 90’s, and learned later on that officially it had been however local people warn to stay on clearly defined paths,  Sitting upon rocky outcroppings, we watched as the sun set adjacent to small islands that dot the coastline.

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Our evening was complete with a night view of the Old Town,  a ride back down the cable car and a couple of drafts listening to music playing on the Stradun.  A walk back to our apartment and organizing for our drive to Split tomorrow.