The “Old Road”, as it is referred to by the locals, is the old highway that runs along the coast between Split and Zadar. Scenic vs speed was our plan, so we passed on the convenience of the “A1” toll-way and ventured on the old coastal 2 lane highway. We were beyond enchanted with the views, the villages, the open racks of lamb/pork on a spit and leisurely drove towards Zadar stopping frequently for pictures. So many beautiful sights and vistas, however I think our favorite area on that drive was around Rogoznica with its unspoiled beauty, access to the Adriatic and laid back style rather than touristy. Definitely on a future vacation list!
Our apartment in Zadar, The Bridge Luxury Apartment, was almost directly opposite the bridge leading into the old town. We were greeted by the manager, Kika, who not only saved us a parking space but literally could not have been anymore enthusiastic and helpful in recommendations and local information. The apartment itself was superb. After relaxing at an outside pub wetting our whistle from the drive, we headed across the bridge to explore. And what a variety of things to explore! The walled old town of Zadar is set on a peninsula that is accessed by a bridge with small marinas on either side where yachts sit side by side old fishing boats. Inside the walls and on the peninsula are Roman ruins, ancient gates, charming streets, seafront, sea organ and medieval churches that would frequently ring their bells….add in wonderful outdoor cafes, restaurants and even high end shopping. The evening was complete watching the sunset which apparently Alfred Hitchcock is quoted as saying “The sunset of Zadar is the world’s most beautiful and incomparably better than in Key West, Florida.”
Our plans for the next day went a little bit astray…..We left the apartment early for a day trip to Plitvice Lakes National Park. The drive was wet but beautiful and full of winding roads and tunnels cut through the Velebit Mountains. The closer we got to the National Park, the harder the rain was falling. We arrived to the park at 930am in a downpour that just didn’t let up. After watching tour bus after tour bus arrive turning the trails into a swarm of foot traffic and rain soaked tourists, we decided to abandon our plans for the Park. We took a laid-back ride through the Velebit Mountains which encompassed the region of Lika, the birthplace of my paternal grandfather. Now I know, upon viewing these mountains, valleys and peaks, why my Grandparents felt so at home when they settled in Red Lodge, Montana. It made me wonder if my and my sister Danielle’s love of the mountains comes from some type of genetic memory.
The evening was spent in the old town of Zadar at one of the many outdoor bistros. We had the pleasure of sitting next to a local family and spent some time practicing my Croatian, learning more about the culture, region and politics. The local people we have encountered have been over and above friendly, especially when learning of Joe and my Croatian heritage. A Croatian singing group was the icing on the cake for the end of the evening….bringing back memories of my playing the Brac’ and my sister Anne playing the Prim in the Croatian Kolo group when we were young. And yes, Kenny K our director, I will always hate solos!